Log Home Maintenance

Log home owners need to be able to recognize wood damage resulting from rot. Being able to recognize wood rot is critical as rot, if left undetected, can quickly grow from a small situation to a major problem.  In other words, wood rot left to fester can go from a weekend project to a time consuming and costly restoration event.

I think it would be safe to say wood rot is not exactly the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about log homes – but in the context of log home maintenance it should be.

What is rot:

These are common types of wood rot with which to get familiar: brown rot, soft rot and white rot. Each type has leaves behind tell tale signs of its presence and these characteristics that will help us identify and distinguish one from the other.

Brown rot tends to split the wood first along the grain and then fractures it against the grain breaking off into little chunks that flakes off crumbling easily to wood dust and resulting in a dry powdery wood unable to support any load or pressure. This is sometimes referred to as dry rot.

Soft rot renders the wood moist and slick and sloughs off in a muddy silt-like sludge or slime when touched.

If the wood has a damp spongy feel this is white rot. Many times the affected wood will appear to have a slight velvet like surface with colors ranging from deep gold and yellows to grayish white.

The rotted wood you see, brown, soft or white, is the result of the microscopic fungi consuming the wood.  For fungi to flourish four environmental conditions are required:  warmth, air, food and water.

To prevent fungi from taking hold we need to eliminate one of those requirements.

From spring through autumn warm temperatures conducive for fungi growth cannot be controlled so there is nothing that we can do about that. Your logs are providing the food fungi needs in the form of cellulose and lignin in the wood fibers and unless you live in a vacuum there is no way to eliminate oxygen which leaves us one choice: eliminate the water.

Keep your logs dry and find the source of the water that is soaking your logs.

Here are just a few simple steps you can take to keep your logs dry:

If you are using gutters and downspouts make sure they are free of debris and direct water properly away from the foundation and that there is no splashing that can reach your logs.

Make sure plantings are trimmed back at least two feet from any log wall.  There should be adequate space for you to walk between logs and your landscaping.

Make sure seals, caulks, and weather stripping around doors and windows remains intact and maintain a strong seal.

Protect your logs and log ends with a quality protective finish.  The finish should repel water yet allow wood to breathe and provide UV protection. There are a number of quality products, finishes, options and additives available from a number of good companies.

Protect lower logs from water splashing from decks or the ground.

Check the integrity of chinking and seals.

If you need to clean dirt from logs simply use a clean damp cloth without detergent to wipe down the log – if you need to use a cleaner try something gentle.

Never let a garden sprinkler water your logs.

Never spray down your logs with a garden hose.

Bearfort Lodge Signature Black Bear Paw PrintNever power-wash a log home nor hire a ‘pro’ to do it.  I will write more about the danger of power washing in an upcoming post.

 

 

In addition to exterior updates you may want to consider what you can do to update the interior of your log cabin such as discount wood flooring at DiscountFlooring purchasing a nice rug, or updating decor.

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When I perform my initial seasonal inspections on my log home I have found it useful to wear a tool belt giving me quick access to 8 essential inspection tools.

Here are the tools I carry:

A rubber mallet:
I use a soft rubber mallet to gently tap logs along their length and listen to the sound the log makes. Using a rubber mallet not only protects the logs, does not leave dents or marks and delivers a nice thump from the wood. Listening to the sound along the length of a log when thumped can alert you to differences in the log density which can be a sign of rot, water retention or hollow.

An 8” Probe:
I cut a straight piece of stiff wire from a coat hanger and bent a loop on one that I can easily slip over my index finger. From the tip along its length I used nail polish to paint marks at 1” intervals. This allows me to quickly probe a crack, check, log end or a hole drilled by an insect which can help to quickly determine the extent of the damage or identify the location and depth of potential rot or a hollow.

A pair of compact binoculars:
Before I go climbing up and down and moving ladders around the house I stand back and scan my logs and chinking from the ground with a pair of binoculars. I have found this to give me a quick and safe way to spot any areas that may need immediate attention. I also use this to initially inspect the chimney exterior for any cracks or gaps between the mortar and stone.

A stick of soft chalk:
I have in my tool belt a thick piece of chalk. It’s the kind of soft chalk that kids like to use to draw on the playground. I find it useful to gently mark or circle insect holes or other areas that I will need to tend to. The chalk, being soft, will not damage the wood or finish and helps me to quickly move from one spot to the other when making repairs. Once I have made the repair I simply wipe off the chalk with a damp rag. I can then stand back and quickly see if I have missed anything.

A spray bottle with water:
I carry a small utility spray bottle with water. As I inspect the logs I spray a little water on a section of the logs to see if the finish is still performing. If the water beads up and runs off the finish is working as it should. If the water soaks into the log I know that I’ll need to apply a new coat to that area.

A small but powerful led flashlight:
I use a small pocket LED flashlight. It gives me a nice strong white light I can use to peer into checks, cracks and gaps in logs and chinking as I look for signs of insect presence, mold, fungi or other debris.

An articulated mirror:
I use a small telescoping and articulated mechanics mirror. You can usually find these at near the cash register at your local hardware store. They come in handy when inspecting around the logs in your eaves or peering around ends overhead or in hard to reach places and used with your flashlight can direct more light where you need it.

A Pen and Notepad:
I find it handy to jot down in my notebook what I find, its severity and location during my inspections. My notebook has basic a basic diagram of each exterior wall. This produces not only a check list of what needs to be done so that I can plan an efficient attack but also, as I check off the tasks completed, provides me with a record of what was done.

Click here to learn more about my notebook.

Do you find this helpful? What tools do you use for your log home inspections? Bearfort Lodge Signature Black Bear Paw PrintSuggestions are always welcome.

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