Andrew asks about the homemade wood preservative:

Hi,

I found your post about the homemade wood treatment very informative! You mentioned at the end that you would post a recipe that didn’t use the antifreeze. Maybe I missed it, but I couldn’t find it anywhere. I’d be interested in that preservative, though… We will be building an Aspen cabin this spring, and need to give the logs a borate treatment once they’re peeled to avoid the black sapstain… I would prefer not to boil down the glycol in my kitchen, though, even though they call it “non-toxic”…. kwim?

Thanks,
Andrew

Hello Andrew —

I’ll have to go back and check — I thought I had posted that — regardless it is simply the boric acid and water —

Read More about wood preservative

Here is a great email from Andy.

Bought some property 3 years ago in Southeast Texas. On it, a log cabin actually built in the 50’s with telephone poles. (Pine) Insert Air Conditioning plus poor design causes some pretty extensive damage though more facial, in some cases, half way through. After determining the damage, I formulated a plan to re-brace the wall at bottom (open), remove the rotted portions, buy treated logs (pine) which are actually used for corner bracing for large fence areas, split and replace rotted area’s. I thought (think) the best way to brace each replacement to the remaining log was to I bolt with curved metal brace. Not sure it will be that aesthetically pleasing but then….Im a rookie. Large nails? Screws? Your thoughts.

Read more about log face replacement

Sue recently asked a question with regard to chinking and exposed logs in a bathroom.

Hi there,

I just discovered your Bearfort website and want to thank you for the interesting reading and the recipe and process for chinking.

I want to ask your advice regarding my old farmhouse. Unless you went to the attic, you wouldn’t know that it is an original hand hewn log house since it is covered with brick and clapboard externally. I am not certain of the exact date of construction, but the PA deed goes back to 1810.

My dilemma comes with the need to replace plaster walls due their extreme deterioration. I have salvaged plaster in all the public rooms but then we come to the current downstairs bathroom which the previous owner “remuddled” in the 1970’s. Log home magazines never seem to dwell on bathroom interiors.

Read more about this bathroom project

Recently a reader asked a question about chinking a hand hewn log home:

Am trying to figure out what is best to seal between logs [our log home is 100+ yrs. old.]. Most important consideration is keeping rodents out. .. Am sealing from the inside because clapboards are still outside. How can I apply mortar without it dripping out? .. Will Permachink keep rodents out?

Sounds like a great project Brian…

I dont know how large your logs are — but lets assume that they are anywhere from 8″ to 10″ tall by about 6″ thick. The gap between the logs may be about 8 ” on average as well.

Traditionally the space would be filled with a mixture of rocks and mud or rocks and mortar.

Read more on log home chinking

I have been away for the last month. Good to be back but lots to do.

Over the past several weeks I had the opportunity to visit Georgia, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, New York State, Rhode Island, and Massachusetts and have taken a look at a number of log homes and other restoration projects as well as take a look at some log homes of some of the readers of Bearfort Lodge.

It was so exciting and I’m looking forward to sharing the experience with you. So - here I am and I’ve got a tremendous amount of updating to do as well as answer numerous emails from readers with questions. I see about 50 or 60 emails in my in-box to which I need to attend.

My apologies to Eunice - What a fantastic and beautiful email - I am responding to your questions on your log home in Ontario. With your permission I would love to post your email here on the site.

Read more on reader responses

Phil is working on a mountain cabin and writes -

I have been building what started as a relatively small cabin, now 5 years later with two timber frame additions in the mountains of Va. The first chinking I used was a mixture of cement sand and dirt and it seemed to crack a fair amount, especially where I added another skim coat in spots. I am now ready to chink the inside and would like a sturdy (somewhat lighter color ) on the inside. I would greatly appreciate any tips / recipes you might have. After 5 years of work I HAVE to get this one right!! Thanks much for your help

Phil Smith

Hello Phil Sounds like a great project… We would love to see photos some time.

Chinking on the interior will be much like your chinking on the exterior - however I suggest a different recipe. Just out of curiosity - where did you come up with your recipe?

Read more on log home chinking

A reader recently asked if the chinking recipe provided on previous posts could be tinted or colored. Yes.

Here is an excerpt from his email:

I am restoring an old log cabin in WV and have gaps several inches wide (4-5 inches). I am going to use a stainless steel mesh as used for stucco as my backing. My question concerns coloring. If I want to color may chinking per your method, recipe, what color agent would you suggest?

Thanks - Paul

My response to Paul:

Read the response