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In Part I we defined, in rather simple terms, the basic difference between Butt and Pass and Swedish Cope/Saddle Notch joinery for log home corners.

Lets now focus on Swedish Cope — I’ll refer to this simply as ‘coped’.

As elegant as coped corners are there are some serious drawbacks that need to be brought to the forefront and discussed.

Keep in mind that as a log dries and the moisture content of a log decreases the log shrinks. A log does not shrink lengthwise it shrinks in diameter.

A log is notched/scribed by transferring a portion of the diameter of the log below to the log to be notched by using a scribe or perhaps some other method. The curvature is marked on the log and a craftsman carefully cuts the notch by hand or machine. The finished notch results in a tight fit between the logs.

Lear more about problems with notched corners

One thing on the list of things that can confuse someone who wants to build a log home is with regard to construction style - particularly to the method of joining the corners.

There are a number of log styles but I’m going to focus on two major methods of corner joinery common to log home construction: Swedish Cope or Saddle Notch and Butt and Pass. Another method is of course the dovetailed home but that is in a class all of its own and discussion on that will have to come at a later time.

If you are planning on building a log home one of the difficult decisions you will have to make concerns what method of construction to use. Sales people from log home companies will spend a great deal of time telling you why their method is best. Some, I have personally experienced, will try to push only Swedish cope, also referred to as saddle notch as being the best and only way to build. This method is no doubt beautiful but there are pros and cons to consider.

In the following crude illustrations I have colored the logs so as to allow better visibility of the joinery.

Read more on joinery of butt and pass and saddle notch