In the last installment of Replacing a Rotted Log I left off where the log had been fitted and wrestled into position.
My next step was to fine tune the position and spike the log to the adjoining standing logs. I used galvanized spikes and drove them through the new log at an angle near each cheek at both the top and the bottom of the log positioned so that the head of the spike will be covered by the 
chinking. My crude diagram here shows the placement of the spikes from a few different views.
Since the log is being inserted to an existing log wall I am very limited as to the placement of the spikes and the size of the spike as I am having to attack the spiking from very awkward positions. I spike from two positions at each end and have drilled a tight pilot hole in the new log so that I do not run the risk of splitting.
In this particular case the log that I am inserting is not bearing the weight of the wall but rather the weight is transfered to the vertical standing logs at either end. Had that not been the case I would of had to figure out and use a more substantial spike.
Once the log was spiked into position the nails were placed for the chinking. I also dusted the area with boric acid and treated the ends of the log and adjoining surfaces with my propylene glycol and boric acid wood preservative mixture.
Following the chinking recipe as provided in previous posts, I made a batch and began chinking along the log. I chink the exterior first and once this has cured I will continue chinking from the interior.
Now that I have applied the wood preservative, boric acid and chinked the exterior I’ll clean up the surface of the log and prep the log for stain and seal and smooth out any areas of the chinking.
Ill use a brush and a damp rag to clean off any of the residue on the wood from chinking and let the chinking stand to firm up overnight. In the morning, using a medium stiff bristle brush I’ll brush off any loose material from the chinking and finish cleaning wiping down the log and the window sill.
The next step will be to stain and seal the area after the chinking has cured and the wood preservative has has had adequate time to soak in.
1 response so far ↓
1 Blaine // May 2, 2008 at 1:53 am
I need to replace corner walls. Eight logs one wall, six on the other. I just want to go to a stud wall. By using lag bolts would this be sufficient, for supporting the corners, and for strength,to hold up the logs, and roof.I still have six logs that would be above the stud wall. I would be using 2×10 studs. Also how would I brace the above logs, while putting in the walls. thank you
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