In the last post on Replacing a Rotted Log – I had removed a log that was rotted and weakened by wood boring insects.
Now that the old log has been removed I have to focus on prepping the new log that will be inserted and spiked in its place.
Using a large blunt masonry chisel I scrape and peel away all of the bark. The log is still a bit green which makes bark removal relatively easy. Removing bark from a seasoned log goes much faster.
If this were a larger log I would use a spud. A spud is a long handled tool sort of like a garden hoe but with a wide flat and blunt end. A blunt end ensures that you do not cut into the wood as the idea is to remove only the bark. A sharp tool would bite into the wood.
The Ash log that I have is about 18 inches longer than I need. This gives me flexibility as far as fitting the log into place as I’ll have to determine where on the fat end, within the 18 inches of play, provides me with the best diameter to properly match the space. Once I’ve made the first cut the other end is set.
The new log is slightly tapered as was the log that I removed. The new log also has a very slight bow over most of its length as did the old log. This in mind I want to make sure that I have properly cut the cheeks at the log ends relative to the orientation of the log in its final position.
After I have the length properly cut I will wrestle the log into the space and then slowly rotate the log to determine the orientation of the bow. With its orientation determined I can now mark the log as to top and bottom. That 
done I have to remove the log from its place and cut the cheeks. (the cheeks are the bevel at either end)
After cutting the cheeks I again wrestle the log into position. In this last photo you can see the log in position.
My next task will be to spike the log to the adjoining logs. In order to do so I will have to slightly adjust the vertical position of the log. I’ll cover those steps in Part III.
