Comments on: A Reader’s Question on Chinking http://www.bearfortlodge.com/bearfort_lodge/2007/08/log-home-chinking-a-readers-question-on-chinking-dear-brian/ Log Cabin Life and the Art of Log Home Maintenance Fri, 06 Jan 2012 21:21:15 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v= By: Bearfort http://www.bearfortlodge.com/bearfort_lodge/2007/08/log-home-chinking-a-readers-question-on-chinking-dear-brian/comment-page-1/#comment-1511 Bearfort Wed, 16 Apr 2008 05:50:04 +0000 http://208.79.203.60/?p=114#comment-1511 Thank you Jon - I'm glad that you have been able to find useful information on here. I love feather-board - It is beautiful indeed and not seen often - that you are cutting it yourself if fantastic. As far as the thickness of the boards - jeeze I am not exactly sure - if cut too thin you may have a situation with cracking. If too thick that could be wasteful. SO you are using the feather-board basically to simulate a chinked log wall rather than using it like traditional lap or clap board siding. let me see what I can come up with and then ll update this response. I would probably treat or seal the boards first simply as I would find it easier but you may find it easier to get them up and then treat. Mortar chinking does not adhere to the wood but rather you will be using either nails or a mesh that the chinking would grab between the boards. If you are planning to use a synthetic chinking - which may be (dare I say it) appropriate in this situation I would would recommend chinking materials from the Weatherall Company over all others. In case you choose to use a synthetic chinking - then you will need to apply your finish (check out UV Guard - also by Weatherall, before you apply the chinking. Synthetic chinking material does not adhere to the wood but rather the finish. No apologies these are great quetions... I would also advise you to use a 10% solution of water and a borate-based product such as Penetreat to help protect against wood boring insects. It can be applied with a sprayer. Update: <a href="http://www.bearfortlodge.com/bearfort_lodge/2006/11/log-home-chinking-simulating-a-chinked-log-wall/" rel="nofollow">Check out this article on Simulating a Chinked Log Wall</a>. Thank you Jon – I’m glad that you have been able to find useful information on here.

I love feather-board – It is beautiful indeed and not seen often – that you are cutting it yourself if fantastic.

As far as the thickness of the boards – jeeze I am not exactly sure – if cut too thin you may have a situation with cracking. If too thick that could be wasteful. SO you are using the feather-board basically to simulate a chinked log wall rather than using it like traditional lap or clap board siding. let me see what I can come up with and then ll update this response.

I would probably treat or seal the boards first simply as I would find it easier but you may find it easier to get them up and then treat. Mortar chinking does not adhere to the wood but rather you will be using either nails or a mesh that the chinking would grab between the boards.

If you are planning to use a synthetic chinking – which may be (dare I say it) appropriate in this situation I would would recommend chinking materials from the Weatherall Company over all others. In case you choose to use a synthetic chinking – then you will need to apply your finish (check out UV Guard – also by Weatherall, before you apply the chinking. Synthetic chinking material does not adhere to the wood but rather the finish.

No apologies these are great quetions…

I would also advise you to use a 10% solution of water and a borate-based product such as Penetreat to help protect against wood boring insects. It can be applied with a sprayer.

Update: Check out this article on Simulating a Chinked Log Wall.

]]> By: Jon Moser http://www.bearfortlodge.com/bearfort_lodge/2007/08/log-home-chinking-a-readers-question-on-chinking-dear-brian/comment-page-1/#comment-135 Jon Moser Tue, 15 Apr 2008 15:35:53 +0000 http://208.79.203.60/?p=114#comment-135 I have just found this website and much useful information - thank you! I'm not sure I am posting a question in the right place but the only place I could find to send an email. I am getting ready to side the outside of our home w/ featherboard that I will be cutting on my sawmill. I will be using your recipe for chinking and methods you have suggested. I am wondering what you suggest for the thickness of the boards? The wideness varies between 8-12 in. I will be using western red cedar. Do you suggest apply a proctective coat before putting the boards up? I wondered if the chinking would adhere to the edges if it had been sealed. What do you suggest using? Do you recommend using nail or screws to apply the boards to the wall? I appologize if these questions are duplicates. I have read thru your blog and didn't find the answers. Thank you for any advice you have and for such an informative site. I have just found this website and much useful information – thank you!
I’m not sure I am posting a question in the right place but the only place I could find to send an email.
I am getting ready to side the outside of our home w/ featherboard that I will be cutting on my sawmill. I will be using your recipe for chinking and methods you have suggested. I am wondering what you suggest for the thickness of the boards? The wideness varies between 8-12 in. I will be using western red cedar. Do you suggest apply a proctective coat before putting the boards up? I wondered if the chinking would adhere to the edges if it had been sealed. What do you suggest using? Do you recommend using nail or screws to apply the boards to the wall?
I appologize if these questions are duplicates. I have read thru your blog and didn’t find the answers. Thank you for any advice you have and for such an informative site.

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