There are a few ways to protect your logs from the elements but I cannot stress enough that painting is not one of them. If you are looking to refinish your log home and some hack of a restoration guy comes along and suggests painting it will help improve its looks and protect it – quickly escort him off of your property.
If you are on the market looking at log cabins and fall in love with one that has been painted – take heed and think hard as you may be in for a rude awakening. Some painted log cabins are salvageable while others may have rotted beyond reasonable repair. Paint can hide a host of problems and there may be a very good reason that they were painted.
The owner may have painted them out of ignorance or perhaps it was to cover up a serious problem. Only a very thorough inspection will tell you.
In these photos you can see that the logs at the lodge had been painted by the previous owner. A brown marine paint was used. Apparently the brown was to simulate the color of the log and marine paint was used 
because it would supposedly help to keep water out. WRONG.
Painting logs with any kind of paint is a set up for rapid decay of a log structure. What was meant to keep water out actually traps moisture in the log. The log cannot breathe and begins to rot at an accelerated rate. This is the M&M scenario: a hard-shell coating with a soft inside.
In this case the previous owner had slathered the logs with marine paint. The paint not only hid the rot from view (out of sight – out of mind) but also hid the goofy and detrimental hack repairs using bathtub caulk, plumber’s putty and a host of other materials.
During examination of the exterior logs I probed them using a screw driver, 
ice pick and a rap of my knuckles to check for rot. Very gently the screw driver was inserted in the log at the checks (cracks) where there was suspected rot. Each location where the screwdriver ‘slipped’ deep into the log with little or no resistance the log was marked with a wire surveyor’s flag. Where there was a distinct difference in sound knocking on the log was also an alert to rot.
The ends of logs were also inspected. On a number of log ends
plumber’s putty had been used to cover up areas of concern. The putty had to be pulled out to see how deep the rot had ventured.
Some hack repairs by the previous owner were quite obvious with metal bands used to help hold the log together. Some logs were almost hollowed by rot and others were soft and spongy.
The photographs posted here show the painted logs and the resulting problems they hid.
An upper deck door area shows the difference between the once painted logs and the logs after the paint had been removed, the logs stabilized and protected with an appropriate finish.
If you are looking at log homes on the market and come across a log cabin that has been painted you must inspect thoroughly. Select a home inspector that has experience with log homes and arm
yourself with the basic knowledge as to what and how to inspect.
In upcoming posts we will walk through the process of inspecting painted log cabins, the process of removing paint from the logs, restoring the logs to their natural beauty and discuss the options for refinishing with the right kind of stains and seals.
We will also take a look at stabilizing and repairing rotted logs.
{ 14 comments… read them below or add one }
I’m selling a log house that was built in the middle of an orchid in 1936 and is now surrounded by city streets (and some remaining fruit trees). It has layers of paint, including a very-poorly slapped-on job before I bought it in ’98 which looks like sheer hell now.
I didn’t have the resources to do right by the house, and now I must paint to sell. Lordy forgive me for the crime I’m about to add to many previous crimes against this house. The painter will hand-scrape. She writes “I bid to scrape and prime all loose material and bare wood respectively. I will fill some cracks in the logs that look like potential problems for rot. Will then apply a body color paint in the same tone depth as existing to the logs, a dark color to the shingles, and a trim color…white or off white, I assume…to the trim around windows, door frames and fascia. The cost for the labor and materials to complete the house itself is $2726.95. The shed cost is $225 incl. paint. If you would like the pressure treated skirting painted the cost for the labor and materials there is $200. This assumes that a deep tone paint or stain is the product being applied.”
She also writes “I use Rodda or Parker Paint, but you can choose from any color chart and we can have it matched near perfectly.”
I cannot do right by this wonderful old house. There is a local cob shooter, but his services are out of reach financially, as is re-chinking. I must paint for the curbside appeal in an abysmal local market, taking into my account my very limited budget, and many other repairs calling for attention.
The painter seems conscientious, and open to suggestion. Given all this, do you have thoughts regarding how I can do to do the best I can for this house? An ugly question, I know, but any tips would be appreciated.
I particularly am interested in suggestions for filling in some of the more prominent horizontal cracks along the fir logs. The chink is cement, and it is sometimes cracked, but I think she’ll have to ignore it and paint right over it.
I hope someday the cabin can be restored. It’s a modest structure, but it has charm and deserves good treatment.
Your site and photos are beautiful. I wish I’d discovered it years ago. I love the old cabin I’m in and regret not fixing it up over the years.
Thank you.
Hello Adrian — I have emailed you my contact information if you would like to have a discussion — I followed the link to the site for you house — It is beautiful.
I am acontractor with little experience in log cabins, Much experience in other repairs and quite capable. I have ahome with 4 logs with significant surface rot. i have replacement logs but you seem to say that is a last resort what do you sugest instead.
Hello Robert –
Yes – replacement of a log is the most drastic but sometimes necessary last resort option. Once you have determined the extent of the rotted area get and after carefully evaluating – see if you can first thoroughly dry the area of rot. This may require you to open up the face of the log. I have used a reciprocating saw to remove a portion of or the entire face of a log to get at the rot. this is still a somewhat drastic method bu in severe cases it has worked for me.
If the exposed rotted area is simply wood soil – completely decomposed I will remove the decomposed material. If the wood is still intact but spongy I will, using a heat gun gently work the area over a period of time untit has dried out some.
Next I will spray the area with a combination mixture – 10% solution of a borate -based preservative, Penetreat and propylene glycol. propylene glycol is pink marine antifreeze. DO NOT use ethylene glycol which is the very toxic green stuff. I apply that as the glycol is hygroscopic and will follow the moisture and replace it. Propylene glycol kills mold, mildew and fungi. The 10% borate dissolved in the glycol will be carried into the wood by the glycol and also works to kill fungi. More importantly it also kills wood boring insects which most likely have gotten into the area in question.
As you dry the area and the propylene glycol dries the borate crystals reform deep in the wood.
Abatron makes a two part epoxy resin that once mixed and applied to the now dry rotted area will be absorbed by the wood and when dry it will strengthen the once rotted wood fibers. Actually the resin can make the wood stronger that it was originally. Once dry I dust the area with the borate based Penetreat and if there is now a void – I may fill the void with a little bit of sheep’s wool. Sheep’s wool has great wicking properties and helps to keep things dry, bugs do not like it and it has excellent insulation properties.
I eventually replace and secure the face of the log apply my stain and blend it with the other logs. If necessary I will replace the chinking around the log.
Now this is a rather simplified version of what I do to repair a rotted area. Some times I do not even need to do that much but get into the rot in the least invasive way possible prep the area as above.
Each case is different and I have to adjust my approach.
But this at least give you an idea of one method. The big question is can you figure out a way of making a repair without having to remove the log. Maybe it involves splicing in a new section of log instead.
I hope that this helps.
Ill have to write an article about this specific kind of log repair.
I had a large log home built for me about 5 years ago. When we have heavy rains water comes into our home from cracks in the logs we think. It seem the lake side of our home get the most wear and tear. Should we just stone over the logs or how can we fix the logs to not leak. What other materials would be good to cover over logs?
Hello Janet –
This is not an uncommon problem with walls that are subject to the most extreme of weather. — Walls that receive the most sun and prevailing winds tend to be the most vulnerable to this type of situation.
Inspect your chinking and make what ever repairs are necessary. As for the logs – carefully inspect each log and look for cracks or checks that are on the upper register log– So those are crack that are from the midpoint (3 or 9:00 position to the top of the log). For any cracks in tat area you can use a product by Sashco called Log Builder Log Caulk. It remains flexible and elastic in extreme conditions and comes in 3 colors that I know of. It comes in a tube for easy application or in a pail for larger applications.
I use this material here at the lodge and have found it to be long lasting and a good solution.
Let me know how it goes.
Hello,
I recently purchased a log cabin that was made from a kit in the 1950′s (its a small summer camp). The previous owner painted it yellow a few years ago (yuck!). I just had it power washed and was going to repaint – I then read that paint wasnt good for a log cabin and to use solid stain. Would the solid stain cover up remants of yellow paint? Thanks!
Hello Lorraine –
Great to hear that you had the paint removed. Please do not repaint! Solid stains made for log homes allow your logs to breathe and offer a greater UV protection than do log home semi or transparent stains. Semi and transparent stains although do not have as great of UV protection are also excellent choices. The advantage to a semi or transparent log home stain is that you will be able to see the beauty of the wood grain. Solid stains will cover that and can make it a little more difficult to spot areas that need attention.
The solid stain may or may not cover or hide the remnants of yellow stain. I always recommend a semi transparent stain.
Now — as far as the power washing – well its done – don’t do that again. – Power washing can be very destructive to log homes. Don’t let anyyone tell you anything different. Power washing can force water into places that are very difficult to dry.
Moving forward. It sounds like the power washing did not remove all of the paint. Thats typical of that method. I would suggest using a sander and sanding the remaining yellow off the logs. I know it may be a lot of work but it will be worth it.
After that suggest a semi transparent stain for log homes — I recommend Weatherall products as I believe that they are the best in the industry. They have a wide range of tints available and offer the best UV protection.
We bought a 12 year old log home that was stained using a penetrating solid color stain recommended for log homes. We now need some repairs done (not related to the stain), and one of the log home restoration specialists who came to the house to do an estimate is telling us that we need to strip and re-stain our home using a semi-transparent stain. He said that solid stains are just as bad as paints and don’t prevent problems–only covers them up. Most websites I’ve seen say that solid stains actually offer more protection from the elements, but most people don’t use them because they like the look of the wood grain. Our stain has been very well maintained and there are no signs of problems. Is this guy just trying to sell us a service that we don’t need?
Thank you for this wonderful site!
Hello Brittany –
Solid stains made for log homes are fine. Is it an oil based or water based stain. Most people stray away from solid based stains because you lose the wood grain. As long as the stain used was made for log homes specifically and formulated to breathe I do not see a problem with that. Paint on the other hand is not meant to breathe. Solid stains made for log homes do provide a greater amount of UV protection than do semi and transparent stains.
I don’t see any reason why you would have to completely remove the stain. If you have areas that need touch up I do however recommend that you lightly sand the area and then carefully blend in the new stain.
The contractor however, was correct in saying that solid stain can cover potential problems and make it difficult for you to spot them. SO you will have to take extra care as you do your seasonal inspections.
If the stain is in as good of shape and well maintained as you say it is possible that the contractor in question is giving more of a scare sales pitch. Its because of this type of sales pitch that I decided to get this information and site up and going and get people informed and educated to they are not taken advantage of.
There are some contractors and ‘handymen’ that claim to be log home restoration specialists that prey on log new log home owners and push methods and services on that give the honest one a bad rap. As such I get a good number of rather angry emails and comments from a few ‘contractors’ that feel exposed. So be it.
However there are legitimate and passionate opinions with in the log home community and I would advise not taking his or my word for it but speak with other log home owners that have been around for a while and ask lots of questions of other log home maintenance people.
I just found this site. With only 27 days to find and purchase a house under VA eligibility, we jumped on a log cabin on 3 acres in the woods. The previous owner had recently painted the exterior. We now guess it was to mask poor upkeep since we’ve found a ton of other problems covered with putty, paint, glue, and whatever he could find to spend nothing, fix nothing, and sell quickly. The cabin has had no maintenance for 23 years.
Now, we wonder if we can remove the paint, ourselves, off the cracked logs, and finish them properly. We don’t have a big budget for repairs so they are all do-it-yourself projects on our log cabin.
After reading the warnings here about painting and repainting, I am certainly nixing that idea. Thanks for the helpful site ~ Rowanne
Hello Rowanne –
The discovery process that you have gone through is exactly what I experienced. The paint only masked the problems and were disguised using putty, tape, glue, and other debris. Sorry to hear that you had to go through that.
Renting a media blasting machine is possible but hard to find. Having someone do it for you can be quick but an expensive venture. Doing it yourself is possible but you have to really be careful. Too much pressure and you can seriously damage the wood. The best forms of media include cob grit as it is relatively soft and beats off the paint. There is also a glass bead media that is ground to a very fine texture much like baking soda. Before you tackle any blasting be sure to practice.
Stay away from any power-washing as this is the most destructive method. let no one try to talk you into it. If they persist ask them to leave.
You may want to try using a grinder with a medium grit pad. You will go through a lot of pads and it may take longer to remove the paint but outof the box you wll have better control.
After dry media blasting the lodge here – every inch of the exterior was sanded. – It took a huge amount of time and effort but it was well worth it.
Let me know about your progress
Hello Tara — Thanks so much for your comments – Im glad that you found the site and that it has been of help to you.
Restoration can be expensive if contracting out – but my goal here is to provide at least some information on being able to tackle projects in a cost effective manner by yourself. Armed with the right tools and know how you should be able to accomplish restoration without breaking the bank.
Actually it sounds like you have a good find. I have just posted on removing paint along with a simple video from a few years back.
I choose cob grit lasting as it is environmentally friendly and makes quick work of removing paint.
you can see the post here: http://www.bearfortlodge.com/bearfort_lodge/2007/05/protecting_logs.html
As far as when a log should be replaced — this is a bit tricky in that i work to save the log rather than replace although one log here at the lodge was replaced.
Log replacement is the last choice as it is a drastic move. I sent you an email and we can have a conversation about this. Ill also start working on a post that will address this issue as you are not the first to bring up the question.
I bought a log home almost 12 years ago now.They family that built and sold the home to me had painted the outside.I was young and stupid back then and just saw a log home in a good location in which to raise a family.I did not think of the future problems.Well my questions are,how do you remove paint from the logs safely not only for the environment and family but also the wood and when should you replace a log or just restore it?
I also wanted to comment on your site.I think this a great thing.I have little money in which to restore this log home and you have shown me a way to do it without killing my budget.
Thank you,Tara