I get a lot of emails from readers asking questions about chinking. Recently a reader emailed me with regard to a project that he is planning. Using 1×10 boards with about a 2″ space in between he wants to create a log like wall with chinking between the boards.
The wall will be standard insulated construction with an exterior nail base on which he will nail into place the 1×10 boards. “Will your chinking mixture work?” yes.
The same chinking recipe,as noted in my previous posts, will work however the preparation of the surface - the positioning of grab nails will be a bit different. (please forgive my crude diagrams)
There are options: You can use nails or wire lath.
If you are using a nail base sheathing on your exterior wall use 1 1/2″ to 2″ galvanized roofing nails spaced in the gaps of the 1×10 every three inches. The nails should be driven in until there is approximately 1/2″ remaining exposed above the sheathing nail base - or driven in to approximately 1/2 below the surface of your exterior board. This will provide an anchor to which the chinking will grab.
If you are using wire lath behind your exterior boards this alone will provide a surface to which the chinking will grab and nails would not be required but still not a bad idea.
Disclaimer: It is always recommended that you check with and abide with your local building codes.
You can apply the chinking in the same methods as described in the linked chinking recipe above.
Since these are boards and not hand hewn you may want to at least use rough cut lumber - this will aid in your efforts to simulate a hand hewn look. At the corners you should off set the boards on the adjoining wall so that the chinking line from the intersecting walls is staggered. You may also want to consider using corner boards as a way to give your corners a more finished look since you will not have the benefit of true dovetails.
Another option, instead of rough cut boards, is to use what some areas refer to as feather board. Feather-board is a rough cut siding material in which the board’s edges are left uncut thereby revealing the natural profile of the log from which they came. I have seen this used in place of milled clapboard in many cases and it is quite beautiful on rustic homes. Using feather-board will provide you with a “less than straight” and varying chink-line that will only enhance the visual.
6 responses so far ↓
1 Ted Drake // May 7, 2007 at 12:54 am
thanks for info. I have been restoring our 1880’s log cabin for 22 years.
wife wants to redo som chinking that I did 18 years ago. so needed to relook recipe. used to have one for sawdust, flour, and bug poison chinking. Chickens loved it if I didn’t put in poison. some was on our cabin and painted from years back. old timers had flour and sawdust and it worked. but they usually painted. have one grainery barn made with swedish coped corners that do not enen need nail(the put them in. has a triple floor originally filled with oats covering a ice house cellar with three foot slate walls. house and other barn are conventional lincoln log style. Thanks again i will be reading as i have a major rotted log at bottom to be replaced. all are hand hewn to 7 and 1/4-1/2 thickness with varying widths. so thanks again from the black hills of sd a few miles from rushmore
2 Bearfort // May 16, 2007 at 11:12 am
Ted — WOW sounds like a incredible project — would love to see photos!
3 J. Coblentz // Feb 20, 2008 at 3:37 pm
I am interested in simulating interior chinked log walls. Any changes to your method that you would advise for an interior wall surface? Thank you!
4 Bearfort // Feb 20, 2008 at 9:52 pm
Hello — there is a possibility of some slight changes. If you are looking for white chinking - which is normally used on the interior than I would use the recipe as found in the post: White Interior Chinking — If you wish to tone it down you could use a pigment additive.
I have to ask — how are you currently planning on simulating the chinking? will you be using a partial round ‘log’? or will you be using something that would resemble a hand hewn style? this will help to determine the best approach and the style of the chinking to achieve a rather authentic look and feel.
Once i know that I can narrow down the suggestions
Thank you! — I hope that I can be of help on your project — Are you going to be doing this in a formal or informal room? What is the look you are trying to achieve?
5 ANDY // Apr 10, 2008 at 9:21 am
I AM LOOKING AT DOING A FEATHER BOARD STYLE OF SIDING ON A INSULATED CONCRETE FOAM WALL AND WANTED TO KNOW IF YOU HAVE ANY SUGGUSTIONS ON HOW TO DO THE CHINKING OVER THE FOAM AND WHAT RECOMENDATIONS YOU WOULD HAVE FOR THE MIX.
I HAVEN’T CUT THE LOGS ON THE BAND SAW YET, DO YOU HAVE A RECOMENDED THICKNESS TO MAKE THIS LOOK THE MOST REALISTIC
YOUR WEB SITE HAS BEEN VERY HELPFUL - THANKS
6 Bearfort // Apr 11, 2008 at 6:32 am
Hello Andy — Lets definitely have a conversation about this as I understand about the featherboard — great looking stuff — Ill have to write a post about that. But what Im not sure about from your question is the chinking over the foam. Are you talking about applying chinking in between the lines of the featherboard? Being that the feather board will lie flat against the concrete foam base with a “chink line” in between? as opposed to overlapping the father board like siding?
If making that space between and applying the chinking between the boards then as in the diagrams above you will need to provide a material or wire mesh for the chinking to grab.
I say this because your boards will not have the thickness available in order to place any sort of nail for grab.
If you, before applying the featherboard - secure a sheet of wire mesh on the wall, then afix your featherboards - you create a space between the boards - top of the bottom board and bottom of the top board to place a chinking line. The wire mesh behind will provide a base for the chinking to adhere.
Call me through Skype or see the contact page and give me a shout — Id be more than happy to talk to you about it.
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