Comments on: Log Home Repair & Restoration: Replacing Chinking and Fixing Logs Part IV – Chinking – and a Chinking Recipe

By: Donald Brantner

Donald Brantner — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 00:13:55 +0000

I am getting ready to move into a friends cabin just outside of Flagstaff AZ the cabin was built in the 70,s it is going to need a lot of restoration The chinking is cracking and falling out and the logs are cracking and rotting under the surface . I really like the cabin and want to fix it up . My friend has had the cabin for 20+ years andhe has been disabled for the last 10 years he is moving to OK and I want to purchase the property . I guess I could use some advice . Thank You

By: Casa B

Casa B — Fri, 14 Nov 2008 03:21:49 +0000

I’m glad to have found this website. We will attempt re-chinking beginning tomorrow using this recipe on the cabin my dad built 30 years ago. I distinctly remember applying the mortar as an 8-10 year-old and it will be fun to get our own kids involved. I have no idea how much goes how far, though, so we’ll see….

Thanks!

By: Glenn Mueller

Glenn Mueller — Tue, 28 Oct 2008 18:37:07 +0000

I built a small log cabin 30 years ago and used prepackaged masonary mortar but added 1/3 elmers wood glue with 2/3 water. That chinking is showing signs of fatigue. Twelve years ago I added a room and used the same technique, but with better skills (my kids were 11, 12, &14 years old on the first cabin.)

I’m now completing a larger lodge, using 12″ butt eastern red cedar, whilch has gaps up to 2″. I plan on using your formula but adding fiberglass and using no backer rods. But, chinking both sides of the same log at the same time to get continuous adhesion. Will I be going wrong. I now have plenty of skilled help within the family.

By: Joe McKinley

Joe McKinley — Sun, 05 Oct 2008 14:30:56 +0000

Thank you very much for the info and tips that you provide. They are very helpful.

I’ve read your recipe and article and the comments that followed. But now I’m a bit confused. My hand hewn cabin has never been chinked (1983 construction). I’m going to chink it next year. I like your cement, sand, lime recipe. But I saw a comment that suggested that their’s cracked badly after a few years, as the attempted advertiser suggested. The gaps between my logs are 4-5 inches and there is a wire mesh/plaster outside layer in the gaps. I’m thinking that I should insulate (blue foam board) between the gaps behind the outside layer, then apply some sort of chinking on the inside. Your recipe for the chinking is certainly the least expensive and I’m leaning that way. But a couple of the comments in this section have me a bit confused. Can you help clarify? What approach would you recommend for buttoning this cabin up?
Thank you so much.

By: Shelly

Shelly — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 02:10:59 +0000

Hi, Glad to know others are out there trying to rechink their cabins. Ours is pre -1800, 2 story building, but was moved 11 years ago then rechinked with a cement-type mortar and is cracking and leaking everywhere. It’s incredibly breezy in the cabin and water also leaks into the walls into the inside of the cabin. Our estimated cost to rechink with “perma-chink”, a synthetic chinking material plus insulation is, $13,000+. The cabin is approx. 18 feet by 22 feet. We are waiting until at least next year… Nice to know I might be able to use some less expensive mortar, though currently I detest the inflexible kind. Thanks for the ideas!