In previous posts we have removed old deteriorated chinking, cleaned the logs, stabilized and repaired wood where needed, even replaced a small section of log.
Now in preparation to chink the logs and seal up the wall I’m going to re-inspect the entire area again and clean-up any remaining debris and look for any section I have missed.
Previously, I had removed the nails that secured the old chinking. Some of the nails simply came out with the old while others had to be coaxed using a pry bar or hammer claw.
Take note of both the spacing and angle of the nails that you are removing. You will want to do basically the same thing when installing new nails.
Once the logs are cleared of any nails I dust the entire area with boric acid. I know this seems like overkill but boric acid is inexpensive and it works.
I receive many questions as to what I use for insulation and how to insulate between the logs. In an earlier post reflecting on my thoughts about chinking – the real stuff vs synthetic, you will see a diagram that shows the insulated area – nail placement and chinking placement. In that post I give my views at to the pros and cons of synthetic chinking — My views on insulation are much the same.
Backer rod is a closed cell foam insulation that comes in various diameters and profile shapes. It can get rather costly. Fitting it properly between the logs usually requires you to cut, shave, and shape the rod with a utility knife. I have used backer rod in the past — and found it not only time consuming but after shaping to fit between irregular shaped logs I ended up with a lot of scrap which also increased my clean-up time. Using roll insulation I can easily cut the strips and gently fill the gaps and its done with little if any waste. It is also inexpensive.
I find roll insulation so much easier to work with than backer rod sold by many log home companies and suppliers.
I use simple roll insulation for sill and seal. I cut the insulation into approximately 2″ strips.
After dusting the strips with boric acid I gently insert the insulation between the logs using a paint stir. Do not cram the insulation in — you want to keep it fluffy.
Working with both insulation and boric acid you must take precautions. I wear a mask and suggest that you do as well. I also wear goggles and gloves and a long sleeve shirt. For photo purposes I had removed my gloves for a short period.
Once I have insulated between the logs I again lightly dust with boric acid and begin tapping in nails which will secure the chinking.
I use what ever nails I have on hand and in this case galvanized 2 1/2″ roofing nails. However, roofing nails have a large head and are not the most ideal to use. Finishing nails are the best. Make sure that you cover the head of the nails.
I tap the nails in to a depth of about half the nail. I place nails at least every three inches offset from the row of nails on the log above or below. During the chinking process I will be pushing the mortar behind and around the nails and covering the nail heads.
Now that my insulation and nails are in place I am ready to chink the logs.
In the next installment I will discuss making chinking and its application.
