Taking advantage of the dry weather, I return to tackle repairing a span of logs that are in great need of attention.
On the earlier post I displayed some photos of the log situation. There are rotten logs, excessive moisture, and rotted chinking that have all taken their toll on the section in question.
Most of the rotten chinking - mortar that crumbles like sand with fingertip pressure - is a result of the chinking not being able to breathe. The previous owner had skim coated the chinking in that area with a synthetic chinking product that although waterproof actually trapped moisture in the log and chinking rather keeping it out. I will address pros and cons of synthetic chinking materials vs. mortar in an upcoming post.
In tackling the project I first gather simple tools: an old beat to hell screwdriver, a pair of scissors, a hammer, a pry bar, a few inexpensive paint brushes, a squeezable condiment bottle, a couple of small plastic buckets, cups or old cans, a few paint stir sticks and a fresh pot of strong coffee.
I have also gathered my materials: Boric acid, a roll of insulation, galvanized roofing nails, portland cement, masonry sand, masonry lime, a wood resin and hardener, and a fresh pot of strong coffee.
Hmm did I say coffee twice?
The first task was to remove all of the old chinking material from in between the logs. Once that has been finished I then remove the old nails that are used to grab the chinking.
Using the old screwdriver and or small trowel I clean out all of the loose and rotted log material. I dig out material from the checks (the cracks in the log) and in and around the log ends.
Once the material has been removed I now use my inexpensive paint brush to clean off all surfaces. — Dusting if you will.
I cover the wall with plastic and let is set for a couple of days to let the logs dry out. Once dry, I again remove any remaining material and dust again.
I examine each log paying close attention to each check (crack) and especially the ends of the log as the ends of the log can wick moisture through the log. I also use either a long screw driver or a heavy metal wire to probe the log. I probe the log at the checks and at the ends to determine if the wood is solid or if there is more material that needs to be removed. If the log is rotted I evaluate whether or not the log needs to be replaced or rebuilt. I will discuss methods that I employ to rebuild logs.
Once I am confident that the log is both dry and void of rotted material I spray all surfaces with a water and boric acid mixture.
I purchase boric acid in five gallon buckets in powder form. It is the best stuff around to kill off and prevent any insect situations as well as a terrific fungicide.
The mixture is poured into my sprayer and sprayed onto the dry surfaces of all the logs. The dry log will absorb the acid mix and as the log dries the crystals of the boric acid will remain within and on.
After the logs have again dried I again use the boric acid but this time I scoop and partly fill a condiment bottle with dry the dry powder form. I liberally dust all surfaces with the powder.
Should any insect cross or crawl through the boric acid — the insect will become coated with the stuff. Once the insect is dusted with this powder the crystalline goes to work sucking out the moisture from the invader and there is nothing that the insect can do but dry up.
Now that I have dusted all surfaces and cavities, checks and end of all the logs with boric acid I let the logs sit for a day.
The acid will also help to dry the log further and any insects that have burrowed into the log will have ample opportunity to get themselves dusted.
Please read all cautionary information on the container, use a face mask when dusting and wash your hands after use.
I dust the hell out of everything and do my best to get the boric acid into all the checks and the ends of the logs. Additionally I make sure to get it on the top and bottom of the log. Although this is where the chinking will eventually go there will be a space between the exterior and interior chinking in which insulation material will be stuffed. I want to make sure this cavity is dusted well with boric acid.
In the next post I will discuss my next step which is to apply a wood strengthening agent.









1 response so far ↓
1 barbara // May 6, 2008 at 8:06 pm
hi, I agree completely about the synthetic chinking. It is unaffordable. The log home company said I would need about 4 buckets. I purchased them before reading your website. Needless to say 4 buckets didn’t even chink one end. Only wasted my money.
After reading your site, we have completed the rest of the house with your chinking. Im not sure though if we made our joints deep enough. We put the nails in as shown on your illustration. There is a 3 inch gap between each log and our chinking is about 1/2 inch thick. Is this thick enough or is it simply going to fall out on me? Please write me back so I can rest from worry. Thank you so much for careing about others enough to give this wonderful info. Barb .. Oh I also wanted to mention that in between our logs to fill the gaps and insulate we used swimming pool noodles. Sounds dorky but they fill the gap very well. We trim the sides with a knife to flatten the edges for chinking. They fit good and tight and expand with the logs. Useing the noodles allowed us to live in the house long before we chinked as they made a good tight seal. 39 cents each at the end of season. You can even slice them long ways in half and make 2 out of it for smaller joints. Alot cheaper than backer rod/board. ALOT!
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